Monday, August 23, 2010

Lake Como and Italian Alps May 2010



How could it be possible for any of the additional stops on our tour to be better than the last?...but each stop exceeded our expectations. Lake Como was a calming, beautiful place to rejuvenate--after our last calming, relaxing stop. And Varenna was the perfect home base for exploring the quaint lake towns. No matter where I looked or walked, the glass-like blue water and the Alps were easily viewed taking my breath away. My traveling companion, continually heard me repeat..."I love Italy!"

Albergo Milano http://www.varenna.net/
overlooks Lake Como, nestled just above the path leading to/from the restaurants, ferry dock to the other lake towns, and the city square. The view from the hotel balcony was spectacular during the day and night. Our first evening in Varenna, we dined on the hotel balcony watching the sun set, while enjoying our most expensive meal in Italy. But it was well-worth it! Each morning, a breakfast was served on the same deck with more of the same magnificent views. The breakfast was not large--but it was adequate--and tasty.

This is what Hotel Albergo Milano calls a "lateral view" of the lake. You actually have to step out on the deck in order to see the lake and the mountains. The Italian Alps were dusted with snow during our May visit.

From the interior of our room...we could see the sunny golden yellow estate next to our hotel with perfectly manicured trees and shrubs. The view was equally gorgeous from the room or from the balcony, and we felt fortunate to be spending time on the lake.

My shrimp bruschette served at the Hotel Albergo Milano. Superb!
In the morning, I would wake earlier than Sharon to take a walk. There were many winding, tiny streets throughout this sweet, charming town. During the quiet mornings, I took tons of pictures. Sadly, I could only place a handful on the blog.
One of the shops in town placed colorful pillows on the steep steps leading down toward the water inviting passersby to rest a bit. Cobblestone walls and streets, narrow alleyways, rod iron gates and rails, and greenery are just some of the endearing qualities of this picturesque place. The town is terraced into the hills with roads barely wide enough for one car to pass--let alone two. I must go back.

This is the walking path that weaves along the waterfront--great for strolling with a friend or lover....while enjoying some gelato!
Bellagio seemed bustling compared to Varenna. In reality, it was a lovely place to spend a day shopping, eating and exploring. Outside dining is the "norm" throughout Italy and especially here on the lake. Most people prefer eating the "fresh" Italian cuisine in the fresh air. The brightly painted bike on the cobblestone street seemed an irresistible Italian moment.


The old stone church caught my attention in Bellagio. I couldn't resist the pointy steeple and perfectly round window.
This was our view of Bellagio from the ferry as we were heading to another lake town.
Italy at its best!
We took a day trip via bus to Lugano, Switzerland on the worst day of the week: Sunday. Everything was closed. But we were determined to visit another European country since it was so close to Italy. The views during our ride over the border were extremely similar to Italian terrain. In fact, if we hadn't seen the "Welcome to Switzerland" sign, I would have sworn we were still in Italy. Our last-minute decision to make this journey to Lugano provided only one hour of hurried exploring since bus service was extremely limited on Sunday. But it was still worth the quick trek to this colorful, family-friendly community. Lugano is a busy city with large high-rises in the city center. It is much bigger than expected with a huge lake park filled with picnic-ers lounging in the Sunday sun on blankets.
We stayed 3 nights (over a weekend) at the Hotel Albergo Milano and I wish it could have been a month. My favorite lake towns were: Varenna, Mennagio, and Bellagio. We saw very little in Cadenabbia, except an old church with great stained-glass windows. It would have been nice to linger a bit longer in Bellagio and Switzerland. We could have easily spent an entire day exploring Lugano had we landed on Saturday rather than Sunday. Balancing travel can be tricky. We planned the basics hoping to allow for some spontaneity. Yet this would have been an instance that some pre-planning could have allowed us more time to see Switzerland. We could have easily swapped exploring the lake towns on Sunday and Lugano on Saturday, since Italy doesn't close down on the seventh day of the week. Even so, it was a magical time on Lake Como.


After viewing the Italian Alps from Lake Como, we headed for Northern Italy to Castelrotto to see the Dolomites. Petra, owner of Haus Silbernagl http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g187859-d671428-Reviews-Haus_Silbernagl-Castelrotto_South_Tyrol_Trentino_Alto_Adige.htmlo offered her bed and breakfast for 36,50 euros per person, per night..."with view of Dolomites for free!" I did a quick day-trip here in 2007 and wanted my friend to see this Italian gem. After people visit Italy and share their Italian experiences, you rarely hear about a visit to the German-style towns nestled in the valley of the Dolomites. We stayed in the Castelrotto at night, but visited Alpe di Suissi via glass Gondola during the day. Our visit was a bit early for the spring flowers in Alpe di Suissi, but the skies were clear and the paths weren't crowded. This area offers miles of paths for serious trekkers--many dressed in lederhosen using walking sticks. Goats, cows, and other mountain wildlife can also be found in the meadow. Horse-drawn carriages provide sight-seeing tours for those who prefer to ride rather than walk. In this gorgeous mountain setting, one can easily imagine Julie Andrews suddenly appearing, singing..."the hills are alive..." I was certain I could hear the music!


Returning to Castelrotto in the evening, the German-painted buildings and German cuisine were the "norm" for the area. We had dinner at the same place twice because it was so tasty--especially the German yeast-desserts.

The trip into the Dolomites is mentally painful for me. The roads to this beautiful country have extremely steep drop-offs and rock-wall barriers that do not look as if they could prevent the large shuttle buses from cascading over the edge in the unfortunate case of lost brakes. Even though I did not have to worry about that, most of the drive found me burying my head in my hands, refusing to look out the windows, while my friend joyously snapped photo after photo of the daring views. She continually reported..."look at the castle....look at the vineyards....look at the drop-off!" Despite traveling in/out of the mountain area, we had a great time in Castelrotto and Alpe di Suissi. May was a perfect time to visit this area.

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