Thursday, August 9, 2012

France - September 2011 Part II

Normandy, St. mere Eglise, and

Mont St. Michel

During our three-night stay in Normandy, we visited many towns and memorial sites in northern France. In addition to a private tour (by Keith-our Bed and Breakfast owner), we stopped at the Normandy American Cemetery to pay our respects to the men and women who sacrificed their lives for our freedom. This lush memorial sits on a cliff overlooking Omaha Beach. Row after row of white crosses line the fields. It is a gorgeous, peaceful place--hard to believe that horror occurred here not so long ago. 

At the end of the day, when the American flag was lowered, the curators looked for U.S. citizens to fold it. My husband (and two of our friends) were selected to help.  What an honor. (We had a similar experience at the Florence/American Cemetery in Italy). A very powerful, emotional day. Plan to spend several hours here--it is worth it. Lots of film and memorials to explore and appreciate.  http://www.abmc.gov/cemeteries/cemeteries/no.php/
Normandy American Cemetery
John (left), Ginger, and John
from our group. 

German cemetery
I wish words could convey what an incredible experience it was to walk the same grounds, see the same sights, and learn about the history of Normandy in person rather than from a text book. One of the biggest surprises was finding the German cemetery, Orglandes, which honors the lost lives of their men and women. The day we visited, young German soldiers quietly cleaned the crosses and repainted the names. Keith said, "Sometimes we forget that the German's lost loved ones too." He reminded us that many of their young men were drafted into a cause they didn't necessarily believe in. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orglandes_German_war_cemetery
soldier repainting crosses






Church in St. mere Eglise




One of the many memorials
on the side of roads




Our guide had me driving down narrow back roads (room enough for only one small vehicle). I would never have considered taking them because they are a logistics nightmare--backing up for long stretches if someone needed to pass. During our travels, Keith pointed out a small plague or statue or sign or other memorials recognizing a battle or a person. He told stories that I'd never read in a history book. For instance, the church in St. mere Eglise displayed a parachute on the steeple because a parachuter got stuck there during the war. And many of the private homes were taken over by American and/or German soldiers who then used them as command centers. One French man was so grateful for American presence that he honored every soldier--who stayed in his home--by engraving their name on a rock wall. Not only was the result beautiful, it has special, heartfelt meaning too. We visited most of the battlefields and beaches. There was too much to take-in in only a few, short days.  http://www.normandy1944.org.uk/ste_mere_eglise.htm
French home honoring American soldiers






names of soldiers this homeowner
came in contact with






Our tour guide took us through many Normandy communities, but this restaurant/hotel stood out. What a treat to come around the bend and see such a picturesque place.
one of the many wonderful hotels in Normandy




Keith and Penny also gave excellent advice on local cuisine--and even made the reservations. One evening, they directed us down a very narrow road to a place we would have never found on our own: Auberge de L'ouve. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1880647-d2259604-Reviews-L_Auberge_De_L_Ouve-Manche_Basse_Normandie_Normandy.html

This restaurant sits near the banks of a river. Cows grazed in the pasture and kayaks lined the grassy edge, waiting for someone to slide them into the river for a paddle. Seven people were in our group, but the two-person staff acted like we were the only customers in their busy little establishment. Americans like to eat fast--get in and get out. But the French take their time. Food is cooked when ordered. Only the freshest cuisine was offered; the menu changed daily. Our duck and fish and chicken were cooked on an open fireplace spit in the back of the dining room. It took at least two hours to complete our meal, but it was an incredibly wonderful, relaxing experience. The staff, the surroundings, and the food--everything exceeded our expectations.


country restaurant
our group at Auberge de L'ouve
On our last day in Normandy, we elected to see something other than military memorials and decided on Mont St. Michel--an 11th Century Abbey. http://www.ot-montsaintmichel.com/index.htm?lang=en What a treat! I drove toward the coast. In the distance, it looked like a mirage poked from the earth. And it turned out, there was an entire village inside that mirage. Enter this magical place and you are taken back in time.  

Mont St. Michel
Entrance to Mont St. Michel
Initially, Mont St. Michel was only accessible by foot--when the tide was out. When the tide was in, water surrounded the castle grounds. A causeway has since been built to provide better access, however, that has ruined the wetlands. It is my understanding that the causeway will be removed and a bridge built in its place so that Abbey can return to its original state. Guests (Pilgrims) enter through a lowered gate. It is a working monastery, now with restaurants and cemetery and hotels. I went inside the chapel where a small choir sang. The acoustics were amazing. I truly thought angels were singing.
inside Mont St. Michel


view from top of Mont St. Michel
The views from the top of Mont St. Michel are amazing--you can see for miles in all directions. We spent four hours exploring the interior paths, taking pictures, visiting the cathedral, and relaxing. One of my favorite spots was the little tree-lined park/walkway--very French!
one of the doors inside Mont St. Michel


more Mont St. Michel


one of the many walkways at Mont St. Michel


Mont St. Michel


Cemetery at Mont St. Michel
If you are ever in northern France--Mont St. Michel is a must see! 


I love these little restaurant statues!
The little man to the right held menu's for a restaurant we dined at near St. mere Eglise. The restaurant was so-so in food, but the little mannequin was cute.

Want to see all my France photos? Click here: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AZNWzZy0YsWT-

This is the same link as in France- Part I.

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