France - September 2011 - Part VI

My husband had serious reservations about going to Paris. Friends told him horrible things about this busy city: it's crowded; the people are rude; food's expensive; it's dirty; there are lots of scam artists. Fortunately, we found none of these warnings to be true.

living area in the Traversiere apartment
 in Paris

I tucked something special up my travel sleeve--a rented apartment from Paris At Home.  The Traverisere Apartment is conveniently located a few blocks from the Lyon train station. If you are a walker--it's an easy stroll. 

The owners, Joel and Nicolas created a welcoming atmosphere: a vase of fresh flowers sitting on the kitchen table; fresh baked baguettes on the counter; homemade marmalades; butter; orange juice; and coffee. The bed was comfy, the free WiFi, an unexpected treat. Even ice cube trays in the mini freezer!

view from our 5th floor apartment

A walking trail above the city, near
the Traversiere apartment

The Traversiere apartment is small, aka: cozy. It is on the fourth floor. Two large windows overlook the street below. We watched people heading to work, coming home at the end of the day, and walking by with bags of baguettes. We dined at the local sidewalk restaurant across the street where we had two of our very best steak meals ever! John was skeptical that anyone could cook a steak in France just the way he liked it--but the peppercorn and mushroom sauce the chef drizzled over the top had John wanting to go back a second time. At the end of our road, above the busy streets, we found a walking trail that was quiet, private, and lead to another park with more sculptures. We tried to walk this several-mile-path as often as possible.

The scariest part of our visit to Paris: driving! We had rented a car for our travels throughout France and intended to drop it off at the rental company as soon we arrived in the city. But we didn't see a gas station close to the city before we were actually in the city limits. At that point, trying to find a station in the city limits became challenging. The first one didn't accept our credit card because it lacked a chip. Gas stations are not large, sprawled out properties in Paris. They are tucked between buildings and you barely notice them. I had a GPS, but still, it took over an hour to find a station open on Sunday afternoon, increasing our already high stress levels. The rental agency was near the Bastille. It seemed like at least thirteen streets merged into the circle surrounding the statue. It took a great deal of determination and assertive driving to make it through the mass of vehicles. 

Our first night in Paris we watched dance
 lessons along the Seine

After we dropped off our car, the remainder of our time was spent exploring Paris by foot or public transportation. The apartment was located very close to the overwhelming Lyon train station, but we preferred the Austerlitz--a much smaller, easier station to maneuver. Besides, it gave us an opportunity to walk across the Seine. If we stood on our tippy toes, we could see the top of the Eiffel Tower from the bridge.

Across the street from the Austerlitz train station was the Jardin Des Plantes. John and I spent one morning strolling through the gardens, taking pictures, enjoying the sunshine and the small zoo (a huge surprise!).

A little structure inside Jardin Des Plantes

Another small garden along the Seine

The plaque referenced in the book: Sarah's Key

The morning we found the plaque on the wall in the Jewish district--the one referred to in the book Sarah's Key. We wanted to visit the Holocaust Museum near this subdued memorial, but it was closed both times we tried.

Unique signage for the metro

Arc de Triomphe - a rare few with only a couple cars

Of course, a trip to Paris must include at least one visit to the Eiffel Tower. We visited the first morning and then the last night. What an incredibly sight--both times. In the evening, they turn on the lights and they sparkle--twinkling on/off under the dark skies.

One of my favorite days was when we found ourselves at the Arc de Triomphe. Hundreds of cars filled the roundabout encircling the monument. Suddenly, the area calmed and I captured this picture with only a few cars. John and I climbed the steps to the top of the Arc and boy, were we glad we did. What a view! Spectacular one of the city in all directions. There is a charge to go to the top, but for us, it was worth it. After the Arc de Triomphe, we walked toward the Louvre, through the Jardin des Tuileries.

Walking toward the Louvre through the
Jardin des Tuileries

Snapshot of the Mona Lisa
in the Louvre

Participatory Art in the City

Quaint shop in the Saint Louis neighborhood

sleeping doggie

There are many small localities throughout the city. Behind the Notre Dame is Saint Louis, a wealthy neighborhood. After lunch, we strolled along the street, window-shopping and enjoying a dog at rest, a street artist playing an accordion, and the quaintly painted La Cure Gourmande.  They specialize in biscuits, chocolates, and confiseries (whatever that is!).

Two other highlights of this city (for me) were the Rodin Museum and the Luxembourg Gardens. The Louvre is so big and overwhelming that we ended up staying for only a couple hours. We found the Mona Lisa, took a photo, and left. But at the Rodin Museum, the grounds and sculptures captivated me. We wandered through the works of art, enjoying his work.  

The Thinker - Rodin

Luxembourg Gardens seemed like hundred of acres within the city limits and is decorated with statues andmanicured shrubs and places to sit, read, and relax. A person could spend a morning, an afternoon, or an entire day in this park. Even though we were in Paris late September, early October, the weather cooperated. We had seventy degree days--comfortable for walking and enjoying colorful blooms before the season changed to fall.  

At the Luxembourg Gardens

At the Luxembourg Gardens

One of the ceilings in the Palace of Versailles

A piece of hand-painted art in the Palace

Everyday was my favorite day while we were in Paris. I tend to be that way anywhere I travel. One day we took the train out to the city of Versailles to see the Palace. I'd been there in February 1996 and loved the artwork on the walls and ceiling within the Palace of Versailles. For some reason, I wasn't aware that there were other grounds that could also be explored: Trianon Palaces and Marie-Antoinette's Estate. 

When we walked from the main Palace grounds to Marie-Antoinette's estate (quite a trek by foot), we passed horse pastures, sheep pastures, and the picturesque scenes. Exactly the kind you expect to see on a royals property. The exterior gardens were flowering with color. Huge lavendar plants and shrubs and fountains graced the grounds.

Marie-Antoinette's garden

I was sad when it was time to leave this beautiful city, but after three weeks on the road, it was time to go home. If you stay at the Traversiere, and you have a lot of luggage, you may not want to take the train to the airport. My understanding was that you had to change trains once. We found that a bus left the Lyon station every half hour, traveling directly to the airport. The price is a bit higher than taking the train, but my husband felt convenience was worth the little extra $$$ not to have to worry about juggling luggage. And we arrived at the airport stressfree. Bonjour!

If you would like to see all my France photos, check out my shutterfly photo book at: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AZNWzZy0YsWT2w .