During our three-night stay in Normandy, we visited many towns and memorial sites in northern France. In addition to a private tour (by Keith-our Bed and Breakfast owner), we stopped at the Normandy American Cemetery to pay our respects to the men and women who sacrificed their lives for our freedom. This lush memorial sits on a cliff overlooking Omaha Beach. Row after row of white crosses line the fields. It is a gorgeous, peaceful place--hard to believe that horror occurred here not so long ago. At the end of the day, when the American flag was lowered, the curators looked for U.S. citizens to fold it. My husband (and two of our friends) were selected to help. What an honor. (We had a similar experience at the Florence/American Cemetery in Italy). A very powerful, emotional day.Plan to spend several hours here--it is worth it. Lots of film and memorials to explore and appreciate. http://www.abmc.gov/cemeteries/cemeteries/no.php/
Normandy American Cemetery
John (left), Ginger, and John
from our group.
German cemetery
I wish words could convey what an incredible experience it was to walk the same grounds, see the same sights, and learn about the history of Normandy in person rather than from a text book. One of the biggest surprises was finding the German cemetery, Orglandes, which honors the lost lives of their men and women. The day we visited, young German soldiers quietly cleaned the crosses and repainted the names. Keith said, "Sometimes we forget that the German's lost loved ones too." He reminded us that many of their young men were drafted into a cause they didn't necessarily believe in. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orglandes_German_war_cemetery
soldier repainting crosses
Church in St. mere Eglise
One of the many memorials on the side of roads
Our guide had me driving down narrow back roads (room enough for only one small vehicle). I would never have considered taking them because they are a logistics nightmare--backing up for long stretches if someone needed to pass. During our travels, Keith pointed out a small plague or statue or sign or other memorials recognizing a battle or a person. He told stories that I'd never read in a history book. For instance, the church in St. mere Eglise displayed a parachute on the steeple because a parachuter got stuck there during the war. And many of the private homes were taken over by American and/or German soldiers who then used them as command centers. One French man was so grateful for American presence that he honored every soldier--who stayed in his home--by engraving their name on a rock wall. Not only was the result beautiful, it has special, heartfelt meaning too. We visited most of the battlefields and beaches. There was too much to take-in in only a few, short days. http://www.normandy1944.org.uk/ste_mere_eglise.htm
French home honoring American soldiers
names of soldiers this homeowner came in contact with
Our tour guide took us through many Normandy communities, but this restaurant/hotel stood out. What a treat to come around the bend and see such a picturesque place.
one of the many wonderful hotels in Normandy
Keith and Penny also gave excellent advice on local cuisine--and even made the reservations. One evening, they directed us down a very narrow road to a place we would have never found on our own: Auberge de L'ouve. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1880647-d2259604-Reviews-L_Auberge_De_L_Ouve-Manche_Basse_Normandie_Normandy.html This restaurant sits near the banks of a river. Cows grazed in the pasture and kayaks lined the grassy edge, waiting for someone to slide them into the river for a paddle. Seven people were in our group, but the two-person staff acted like we were the only customers in their busy little establishment. Americans like to eat fast--get in and get out. But the French take their time. Food is cooked when ordered. Only the freshest cuisine was offered; the menu changed daily. Our duck and fish and chicken were cooked on an open fireplace spit in the back of the dining room. It took at least two hours to complete our meal, but it was an incredibly wonderful, relaxing experience. The staff, the surroundings, and the food--everything exceeded our expectations.
country restaurant
our group at Auberge de L'ouve
On our last day in Normandy, we elected to see something other than military memorials and decided on Mont St. Michel--an 11th Century Abbey. http://www.ot-montsaintmichel.com/index.htm?lang=en What a treat! I drove toward the coast. In the distance, it looked like a mirage poked from the earth. And it turned out, there was an entire village inside that mirage. Enter this magical place and you are taken back in time.
Mont St. Michel
Entrance to Mont St. Michel
Initially, Mont St. Michel was only accessible by foot--when the tide was out. When the tide was in, water surrounded the castle grounds. A causeway has since been built to provide better access, however, that has ruined the wetlands. It is my understanding that the causeway will be removed and a bridge built in its place so that Abbey can return to its original state. Guests (Pilgrims) enter through a lowered gate. It is a working monastery, now with restaurants and cemetery and hotels. I went inside the chapel where a small choir sang. The acoustics were amazing. I truly thought angels were singing.
inside Mont St. Michel
view from top of Mont St. Michel
The views from the top of Mont St. Michel are amazing--you can see for miles in all directions. We spent four hours exploring the interior paths, taking pictures, visiting the cathedral, and relaxing. One of my favorite spots was the little tree-lined park/walkway--very French!
one of the doors inside Mont St. Michel
more Mont St. Michel
one of the many walkways at Mont St. Michel
Mont St. Michel
Cemetery at Mont St. Michel
If you are ever in northern France--Mont St. Michel is a must see!
I love these little restaurant statues!
The little man to the right held menu's for a restaurant we dined at near St. mere Eglise. The restaurant was so-so in food, but the little mannequin was cute. Want to see all my France photos? Click here: http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AZNWzZy0YsWT- This is the same link as in France- Part I.
We landed in a rainstorm at Charles de Gaulle Airport near Paris on September 11, 2011. When we booked our trip, we didn't think about that day being a memorial for 9/11, we just wanted to see France. Instead of going into Paris, where security around the Eiffel Tower and other touristy locations was high, we stayed near the airport at a Holiday Inn in a little town called Ville de Roissy. We were exhausted from the ten hours in the air, and the last leg of our three-week vacation would be spent in an apartment in Paris. This decision turned out to be a perfect way to start our French adventure.
Church in Ville de Roissy
some of the signs were in English
Onion Quiche
Restaurant billboard
It was Sunday--and most of the village businesses were closed. But that didn't stop John and I from taking a walk around town--in the rain. A few of the signs were in English which surprised us (most were not). One of the first buildings we saw was an old church with a rock face. I must have taken twelve pictures, but I only posted one. Since the restaurants in town hadn't opened for the evening, the billboard had nothing on it. The menu changes daily and is updated by the chef when the cafe opens. There were flowers and cobblestone streets. Even with our minimal time in this small town, I was falling in love with France. That evening, much earlier than the local dining time of 8:00 p.m., John and I ate at the hotel restaurant at five--we were starving! He had a burger; I chose onion quiche, and it was the best quiche I've ever had. http://www.holidayinn.com/hotels/fr/fr/roissy-en-france/parrv/hoteldetail/directions The Holiday Inn was close to the airport and a nice place to stay for one night. (I used points, so it was also FREE!) The place was clean, the rooms were small, but nicely appointed. BTW, whenever I travel to Europe, I buy a Rick Steves' book for reviewing what to see and where to go, and I use http://www.tripadvisor.com for places to stay. I pick a bed and breakfast whenever possible--one that has been highly rated based upon other travelers experiences.
Village de Roissy--near the Paris airport
one of the streets in de Roissy
Flowers in de Roissy
Ville de Roissy isn't a huge town. It was a quaint, authentic French village with bakeries and fruit stands and cobblestone streets. The Holiday Inn was within walking distance, so we headed back into town (less than a 10 minute stroll ) the next morning to buy our first chocolate croissants. I don't know what it is about French pastries, but they are melt-in-your mouth delicious. Ville de Roissy left me filling transported into another time. I would recommend staying here at least one night during your travels to Paris.
an old rock house
Roman Catholic Cathedral in Rouen, France
We own a TomTom GPS. Before leaving Oregon, we added the France map to our unit for about $80 and brought it with us. We rented a car at the airport and headed north on the first leg of our journey: Normandy. When I set the address for our final destination (St. mere Eglise) I selected no toll roads and ended up on the scenic backroads. It did take quite a bit longer, but we passed through a lot of gorgeous countryside and little towns. Midway between the airport and Honfleur, was Rouen. This is a large city; the most impressive piece of architecture was this old Catholic church. Don't get me wrong, Rouen has narrow streets where tourists can get lost (and we did). There were clocks and shops and bakeries and gelato, but it was far more bustling than I like. My husband and I both prefer the smaller towns. We explored on foot for about an hour, then headed further north to Honfleur.
Honfleur, Normandy
This little fishing village sits on the water and boy is it charming. The colors, the boats, the awnings, the dogs, the carousel--everything about this town made us want to stay. Unfortunately, we could only visit for a few hours. I did get tons of pictures, but am posting only a few on this blog. We probably walked at least five miles--up and down every side street we could find, trying to get lost, but never succeeding.
I would have loved to have stayed here. If I ever go back, I certainly will. http://en.ot-honfleur.fr
Village of Honfleur--right on the water
Doggie in the window
Tower in Honfleur
cobblestone streets
The color in Honfleur!
John in Honfleur
The buildings in Honfleur--delightful!
White Cross Manor
Gate for backyard of White Cross Manor
White Cross Manor backyard
Penny and Keith
In St. mere Eglise, we joined five other friends in a bed and breakfast called White Cross Manor. http://www.vrbo.com/190550 What can I say about this place? Our hosts (Penny and Keith) were great, the breakfast was great, and the cocktail hour was awesome. But I rated this location as below average because our room did not appear as advertised on vrbo. I have a disclaimer: We traveled with two other couples and one single companion. I didn't book the place (another member of our group did) and so I wasn't privy to his conversations or emails. I looked at the pictures on line and the B&B looked charming. I couldn't wait to arrive.
Apparently, White Cross Manor was not equipped to handle the seven people in our reservation, but did so anyway. It appeared they were in the process of remodeling a third floor attic space. At the time of our arrival, the space was primarily plywood and concrete and insulation--not the sweet, charming room I expected. And we had to share a bathroom with another person.
sofa with ugly covering-unfinished concrete walls
sitting area in loft room
fabric stapled to the particle
board ceiling
bed against particle board--wallpaper boarder on
top of particle board
insulation sticking out
shared bathroom/fabric stapled on walls/exposed
insulation on ceiling
As you can see, fabric covered the closet opening and the exposed plumbing in the bedroom and on the bathroom ceiling too. When the toilet flushed, a loud swish and gurgle went through our room. The furnishings in the room were Goodwill at best (and that is being generous). The rest of the house was decorated decently and the exterior of this property is very inviting with the rock face and the lush gardens.
From what I understand, our companions rooms appeared as pictured on vrbo. And it is also my understanding that we paid exactly the same for an inferior space.
How could this have been resolved? Well, I should have been proactive and had a hand in the reservation. This was my first experience turning it over to another party. I generally spend a great deal of time looking for the perfect place to stay. If I'd known in advance that our room would have looked like it did, I could have made other arrangements. Or if the cost of the unfinished room had been reduced--to reflect the uninviting accommodations--my review may have been different.
Penny and Keith were great hosts. It pains me to give a bad review. The accommodations were disappointing. We'd looked forward to this trip for over a year. I believe the room has now been updated, but I would clarify what your room will look like if that is important to you.
Last, we spent a day with Keith touring Normandy (extra expense but worth it). He is knowledgeable and familiar with the area. We saw sites we would have never been able to locate without him. The Normandy Tour will appear in Part II of my France blog.
